Five years after a devastating earthquake, the Caribbean nation of Haiti is attracting tourists with its undiscovered charm. 
Judith Baker is just back from exploring what it has to offer.
Haiti, which shares the island of Hispaniola with the much more developed Dominican Republic, has always been a Caribbean destination with a difference. Not here the Bob Marley paraphernalia, the sprawling all-inclusive and the cocktail bars. Instead the traveller finds staggering fortresses, an incredible history, mysterious voudou ceremonies and whole towns and cities covered in amazing artworks
Ye the landscape is typical tropical – Haiti has some of the region’s loveliest waterfalls, finest beaches, magical grottos and caves and breath-taking mountains.
But , the earthquake has given Haiti a new beginning. Tourism is a priority of the government and moves are underway to prepare Haiti for a new golden era. A brand new Marriott hotel funded by Digicel stands incongruously amid the rubble of the capital. staffed by both returning Haitians from Marriotts all over the world and local people recruited from some of the poorest parts of the country, and trained in the ‘Marriot way’.
There is much to discover here. Start with the La Citadelle la Ferriere, the largest and oldest fortress in the Western hemisphere, the best place to learn about the country’s history – it was the first nation to overthrow slavery and became the world’s fist black republic . Built in 1804 it takes a steep hike to reach (3000 feet above sea level) but the awe-inspiring spectacle is worth the effort. I travelled on horseback, accompanied by friendly Haitian boys.
At the foot of the hill we find the crumbling grandeur of the ‘Versailles of the Caribbean’ – the Palace Sans Souci, the vision of Henri Christophe, the self-proclaimed king of Haiti crowned in 1811.
Next year, Royal Caribbean, which brings 600,000 day visitors a year to the country, is going to start excursions to the Citadelle, and the World Bank is investing US$45 million in developing the site.
Elsewhere in Haiti you find Bassins-Bleu, hidden in the hills above the picturesque sea side town of Jacmel. Made up of three deep, crystal blue pools of water I clambered down awkwardly by ropes, rewarded with an exhilarating swim in a grotto said to be visited by nymphs.
Jacmel was a coffee and sugar port, and its quiet streets and colourful clapboard houses are an oasis of calm after Port au Prince. Hotel Florita is an 18th century warehouse furnished with old coffee processing equipment. Like everywhere, it is decked out with papier mache, carnival costumes and elaborate metal work.
There is no escaping art in Haiti. Tiny Jacmel alone has 35 galleries and the walls and streets everywhere are awash with murals, mosaics , paintings and sculptures.
My advice? Visit Haiti now before the crowds arrive!
www.experiencehaiti.org
Very excited – visiting in July to meet the farmers at a cocoa farm and then travelling around for a week. Think we will relax in Jacmel..