Judith Baker visits the heart of Germany where new budget flights make it easy to reach the cultural cities of Weimar and Erfurt
The pretty medieval city of Erfurt is the capital of Thuringia, one of Germany’s most historic regions in the heart of the country. Long overlooked by tourists who flock to more mainstream German destinations, the region is home to lovely countryside, palaces, parks, castles and a rich cultural history which includes famous musicians Bach and poets Goethe and Shiller among others. I visited recently, landing in Erfurt via new flights from Gatwick with German airline Germania. Starting in Cathedral Square, i climbed up to the twin churches of Mariendom (the Catholic cathedral of the Virgin Mary founded by Bonifatius in 742) and St Severi. Among other things, the cathedral boasts the biggest free swinging medieval bell in the world.
Erfurt’s most famous landmark is its impressive Merchants’ Bridge, the longest bridge in Europe entirely covered in houses still inhabited today. It is often compared to Florencce’s Ponte Vecchio, and I took a lovely walk along this picturesque Bridge to sample truffles from an artisan chocolate shop and stopped at the antique shops and book sellers who sell their wares here
From here I visited the Augustinian monastery built in 1277 where Martin Luther lived as a monk from 1506 and were it is possible to see the reconstructed cells which give a glimpse of what life was like for him there as he meditated on the thesis which was to change the face of religion for centuries to come . Next stop was the old Synagogue, built in the 11th century but left to fall into disrepair for centuries. Inside we were treated to a glimpse of an incredible haul of treasure buried by Jewish families in the 1th century and only discovered by accident by a construction worker in 1998. The highlight of the trove was a medieval Jewish wedding ring still in perfect condition. After that it was time for tea and huge slices of poppy seed and apple cake before a quick hike to explore the citadel before dark and I even found time for shopping in the city centre.
Over in Weimar, classical treasures abound as well as lovely pubs and restaurants, although nothing tastes quite so good as a hearty Bratwurst bought from one of the stalls in the market square.
Weimar encompasses a wealth of UNESCO world heritage treasures, all in close proximity to one another: no fewer than 16 individual buildings and ensembles have been recognised by UNESCO for their cultural importance.
The ‘Classical Weimar’ sites include the houses of Goethe and Schiller, the Duchess Anna Amalia library, the Church of St. Peter and Paul, palaces, parks, statues and gardens.
I began the day in the sombre Jacobsfriedhof cemetery, which houses the vault where Friedrich von Schiller was laid to rest although his remains were moved some years later. Also buried here are Goethe and his wife and the painter Lucas Cranach. Later I was able to visited the Herderkirkche (church of St Peter and Paul) with its magnificent Cranach alter. Next stop was Goethe’s house where the creator of Faust lived in the late eighteenth century, still laid out and decorated as it would have been when he was there. The tour included a trip to the adjoining Goethe museum and ended with a visit to the lovely Rococo gem, the Duchess Anna Amalia Library.
This was just around the corner from my delightful hotel, The Hotel Elephant, one of the towns oldest properties stayed in by a number of well-known people over the years including Thomas Mann,artists Klee and Kandinsky and perhaps its most notorious guest, Adolf Hitler in the 1920s.
Weimar was also the centre for the influential Bauhaus movement, which started here in 1919 and as a former part of the old GDR of Eastern Germany a town of major 20th century historical interest.
Germania flies to Erfurt direct from London Gatwick twice a week and prices start from 59 Euro one way (about £49)
See www.germania.de
For further information on the region see www.visit -Thuringia.com