By Judith Baker
Anguilla in the Northern Caribbean is a small British overseas territory that despite its popularity with the jet set – Justin Bieber spent New Year here and other A listers are regularly spotted – has managed to hold on to a simple charm.
I drive down dusty roads, through small rustic villages and past rickety food stalls and driftwood signs pointing to hidden bays. The climate and tropical scenery is classic Caribbean but where are the all-inclusives, the fast food chains and the cruise ship passengers?
They don’t exist on Anguilla which remains low-key despite being a favourite with American tourists since the opening of Cap Juluca in 1988. There are now a number of hotels, both luxury and affordable, but high rise resorts, casinos and all-inclusive properties are not allowed here – even jet skis are forbidden.
Instead I find dozens of relaxed beach bars and restaurants such as Straw Hat, Blanchard’s, Smokey’s and Elvis’ beach bar but for a real taste of authentic Anguilla I head to the food stalls at ‘The Strip’ in The Valley, Anguilla’s capital, where a row of stands like Ken’s BBQ do a roaring trade in chicken roti, local beef stew, oxtail and curry goat with locals and tourists alike. This is old-fashioned Caribbean fun with no frills.
The island has built a reputation for being the cuisine capital of the region because of the numbers of eating establishments and the quality of the food – you can dine in sophisticated restaurants like Veya at Sandy Ground and Da ‘Vida restaurant at Crocus Bay as well as the simpler home-style bars and stalls.
Or head for one of Anguilla’s little off shore islands and cays which are perfect for a day’s escape such as Sandy island, Scilly Cay, uninhabited Prickly Pear cays or Sombrero Island.
.Bankie Banks, Anguilla’s answer to Bob Dylan can be found hanging out at the beachfront Dune bar, just down the beach from CusinArt hotel but most bars and restaurants have live music and the strains of soca and calypso can be heard around the islands.The island has a thriving music scene with festivals throughout the year, the most notable being the annual music festival, ‘Moonsplash’ in April.
For more information visit the Anguilla Tourist Board: www.ivisitanguilla.com
Getting to Anguilla
Flights to Antigua start from £617. Fly via Paris with Air France to St Martin and then take the ferry to Anguilla, www.funtime-charters.com
Or fly to Antigua with BA or Virgin. Liat have now introduced a daily connection flight from Antigua to Anguilla which starts from $269 return www.liat.com