A Gastronomic delight in the countryside. by Judith Baker
Spring has finally sprung and seeking some fresh country air, pastoral scenes of new born lambs and green fields, I headed to one of my favourite parts of England, the Cotswolds.
But here in the tiny village of Paxford, just 2 miles from Chipping Campden and 5 from Broadway, I find one of the prettiest pubs in the area, and also one of the most surprising. For The Churchill Arms (it dates back to the 17th century and was named after the famous PM’s family who owned a huge estate here) is an exceptional gastro pub with rooms that is quickly becoming a foodie’s favourite.
The Churchill Arms, which opened last year after extensive refurbishment, is the first venture from local boy Nick Deverell-Smith who was named the Junior Chef of the Year in 2000. Deverell-Smith has worked with some of the country’s top chefs, including Marco Pierre-White, Gordon Ramsay, Marcus Waring and Eric Chavot, before becoming head chef at Soho House and then Dean Street Kitchen. He has now brought his distinctive style of cuisine to the boutique pub The Churchill which also has rooms where diners can relax in country comfort after enjoying a meal here.
The bar is a welcoming cosy place with stone floors and an inglenook fireplace. Rural paintings of cows and farming scenes are on the walls as well as a portrait of Sir Winston himself, whose name is given to the Churchill Arms’ own ale, Winston, brewed locally especially for them at a North Cotswolds brewery. Locals and visitors alike enjoy the lively atmosphere here where there are regular events including quiz nights and ‘Fizz Fridays’ with half price champagne and canapés from 5.30 pm to kick off the weekend.
But the food is the main attraction here. Deverell Smith has created a menu which combines British classics with innovative modern dishes, using the best of local produce imaginatively and lovingly prepared in The Churchill’s kitchen. You can choose from starters such as devilled liver and toasted ale bread or smoke haddock soufflé and mains including Barbury duck breast with broccoli puree and red wine shallots or spice cod with glazed endive carrot puree and braised rice. There are lovely puddings including pineapple tarte tatin and chocolate tart with orange sorbet.
Upstairs the bedrooms are delightful country cottage style cosy, with king size beds and crisp bed linen. The en suite bathrooms have bath tubs and showers. This is an ideal base from which to explore the surrounding Cotswold villages and countryside and is easily accessible by car and rail. A room is £120 per night. www.churchillarms.co Tel: 01386 593159